Do you know that nice jewelry may be as moral and sustainable as it’s lovely?


Singapore — With many people now extra involved about purchasing consciously and sustainability, about even selecting to journey in a extra eco-friendly manner, the whole lot we add to our lives nowadays is turning into a extra, and extra thought-about selection.

So, what about jewelry, nice jewelry particularly? For some time treasured stones like diamonds, and supplies like gold and platinum, have been targets of moral and environmental considerations with points like ‘blood diamonds’ and the chemical substances utilized in gold mining, for instance, making individuals query as as to whether or not they need to be shopping for these things.

Certain, a lot of us don’t actually assume that onerous about the place our engagement rings or different costly items of nice jewelry come from, however increasingly individuals are beginning to so.

So, what are you able to do if you wish to purchase extra ethically sources, or environmentally pleasant nice jewelry fabricated from diamonds, gold and different treasured supplies?


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Aquamarine with casing and sketch. (PHOTO: Calla Lily)

“Repurposing your jewelry – whether or not heirloom items or current items – is a type of recycling [jewellery], explains jewelry Emily Tan, the founder and artistic lead of latest Singapore artisan bespoke jewelry model Calla Lily Effective Jewellers.

“Many individuals have heirlooms that they’re hooked up to however by no means put on as a result of it won’t go well with them or are merely thought-about old school. These items keep hidden away in a protected or a financial institution,” says Ms Tan.

As a jewelry designer, Ms Tan is ready to give an current piece of jewelry a brand new life by redesigning it utterly, or repurposing the stones used.

“You possibly can protect the reminiscence related to a bit, however restyle it into one thing that you’d get pleasure from carrying. The choices are fairly countless, even whereas preserving the integrity and worth of the gem,” says Ms Tan.

Jade ring design. (PHOTO: Calla Lily)

She notes that the gems from heirloom jewelry items may be reused to create different, extra wearable items: “A hoop may turn into a pendant, earrings may very well be reset right into a

ring, and a necklace may very well be recreated in various methods.”

And Ms Tan agrees that repurposing your current jewelry items “makes each monetary and environmental sense”, if you’re involved about each the moral points and environmental points surrounding the manufacturing of nice jewelry.

“For instance, we restyled an heirloom jade ring right into a pendant with diamonds and tsavorite garnets, and reset a marquis diamond solitaire into a shocking armour ring,” explains Ms Tan.

“What’s necessary to recollect when repurposing heirlooms are the stones which can be set within the unique items. Stones like diamonds, sapphires and rubies are very sturdy, however care must be taken with softer stones like turquoise and moonstone.

Outdated marquis solitaire ring and sketch design. (PHOTO: Calla Lily)

“A jeweller with intensive expertise in colored gems can work with you to make sure the worth of the piece is preserved, whereas additionally enhancing the design within the course of. The outdated turns into new once more,” says Ms Tan.

What do you do, nevertheless, should you don’t have any heirloom or current jewelry to repurpose?

Properly, there at the moment are methods to make sure that the gold you might be shopping for comes from accountable sources, eco-friendly sources or is recycled gold. There may be even a brand new label to look out for: ‘fairmined’ gold.

Even a few of the world’s most unique jewelry manufacturers at the moment are taking up these moral and environmental points; Swiss nice jewelry home Chopard turned the primary massive identify to decide to ‘100% moral gold’ utilized in its watches and jewelry in July 2018.

Should you resolve you need to select moral gold, there are two most important ‘labels’ that you should use in order that you realize you might be shopping for the correct of gold.

Each the Fairmined gold label licensed by a Colombian NGO, and the extra extensively recognised ‘fairtrade’ label launched by Swiss basis Max Havelaar, guarantee their labeled gold meets a set of requirements that assist minimise unfavorable environmental influence from mining gold. Any such mining additionally has to make sure respectable working circumstances and wages for the miners.

Sadly, mines that match these strict standards are nonetheless comparatively restricted. There may be only some hundred kilograms of licensed gold produced yearly; whereas the normal world gold manufacturing is round 3,300 tonnes per 12 months!

So, should you can’t afford this extremely licensed gold, you too can have a look at ‘recycled gold’.

The non-profit Accountable Jewelry Council makes its members signal as much as comply with a strict provide chain, that embody issues like human rights, moral and environmental practices inside the treasured metals manufacturing chain.

Luxurious jewellery from the Plume de Paon assortment sit inside a show case within the renovated Boucheron luxurious jewellery flagship retailer, operated by Kering SA, forward of reopening in Place Vendome Sq. in Paris, France, on Monday, Dec. 3, 2018. Boucheron is a part of the elite membership of French jewelers that produce haute joaillerie, or excessive jewellery: one-of-a-kind items priced from $50,000 to a number of million {dollars}, that are handcrafted in Vendome ateliers to point out off treasured stones and their makers’ most superior methods. Photographer: Christophe Morin/Bloomberg

Prime luxurious manufacturers like Boucheron, Pomellato, Dodo and Gucci – all beneath the Kering luxurious group – are signed up to make use of the recycled gold licensed ‘RJC Chain of Custody’, since these manufacturers use fairly a considerable amount of gold of their merchandise.

Whereas Fairmined or Fairtrade gold is simply about 10-12% costlier than historically sourced gold, recycled gold prices virtually the identical worth.

There are additionally firms like Courbet that makes use of gold recycled from from digital or industrial waste; based on the model you discover 5 grams of gold in a tonne of land, however as much as 200 grams of gold from a tonne of digital waste.

When you’ve received your fingers on some gold, silver or platinum, and you might be in search of moral gems, the place do you go?

Diamonds. (PHOTO: Getty Photographs)

Courbet makes use of solely laboratory-grown diamonds and different gems, as a result of no land or environments are disturbed or destroyed to make them.

The mining of diamonds, particularly, is problematic as a consequence of problems with large-scale industrial mining which damages the surroundings and may abuse staff, or the extra humane points relating to small-scale mining that’s typically manipulated and abused by organised crime or different exterior forces.

There are a selection of organisations which can be working in direction of bettering the circumstances of miners within the diamond business just like the Peace Diamond Alliance (PDA) and Mwadui Neighborhood Diamond Partnership in Africa, which is the supply of most diamonds on the earth.

Apart from diamonds, there are a variety of organisations that promote responsibly sourced gems of every kind from opals to emeralds, rubies and sapphires.

When you’ve accessed your supplies, you then want to search out somebody to create your bespoke piece of nice jewelry.

Pink spinel ring. (PHOTO: Calla Lily)

The founder and lead creator of a bespoke jewelry model, Emily Tan, has a level from the London School of Trend, and is a graduate gemologist for the Gemological Institute of America; she additionally labored with Jimmy Choo Couture in London, Marni in Milan, and Kara Ross in New York earlier than shifting again to Singapore, and finally launching her personal model.

Ms Tan completely understands the significance of making a bespoke piece of nice jewelry.

“That is the age of the person, a celebration of quirks, tastes and distinctive affections,” explains Ms Tan.

“Jewelry has all the time been a strong type of self-expression, and it’s much more so now. Our prospects don’t simply need to purchase off-the-shelf or mass produced items. They need to create bespoke items which can be of true worth, and that go well with their fashion and funds.”

Working with an artisan jewelry like Ms Tan helps you create items of jewelry can seize your persona, or rejoice an necessary second in your life.

“One buyer commissioned a bit as a tribute to a beloved household cat,” explains Ms Tan, “others need to experiment with private fashion – a buyer who often wears diamonds collaborated with us on a placing pink spinel ring with the added twist of a halo of flutter wings.

“That’s the essence of bespoke – the piece you create incorporates a story with each which means and recollections. It’s private to you.”

The Calla Lily atelier is positioned at 56 Eng Hoon Avenue #01-56. To make an appointment, go to

For Chopard Boutiques in Singapore, go to; for Boucheron boutiques are positioned at Ngee Ann Metropolis and Marina Bay Sands; the Pomellato boutique is positioned at #01-17 Hilton Resort; and Gucci boutiques are positioned at Paragon Procuring Centre and Marina Bay Sands.


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