Louis Vuitton pays homage to New York in embellishment-heavy JFK present


No sooner had the feathers been swept off the steps of the Met following the glittering gala opening to the Camp: Notes on Trend exhibition on Monday evening in Manhattan, then one other iconic New York location was enjoying host to a style spectacle.

French style juggernaut Louis Vuitton took over the once-abandoned Trans World Airways terminal at JFK airport for its 2020 resort assortment. The mid-century area was designed by Finnish architect Eero Saarinen and accomplished in 1962, but has been closed since 2001 when the TWA airline ceased operations.

Following a luxurious restoration paying homage to the golden age of journey through which it was constructed, it’s now primed for a grand reopening as a lodge complicated on 15 Could, however not earlier than being reworked right into a catwalk by France’s second-oldest couture home.

Accordingly, the 60-look assortment paid homage to New York, which the present notes known as “the world’s most cinematic metropolis”. By way of inventive director Nicolas Ghesquière’s futuristic lens, tailoring took on a Wall Avenue sensibility, with pinstripes, peaked lapels and energy shoulders.

A mannequin walks the catwalk for Louis Vuitton.

A Wall Avenue sensibility seeped into the gathering. {Photograph}: Dia Dipasupil/Getty Pictures for Louis Vuitton

Embellishment featured closely, with twinkling embroidered and appliquéd brocades on darkish silhouettes to create “a Gotham Metropolis ambiance” and black leather-based was moulded into shield-like headpieces and Batman-style physique armour.

Associated: ‘The great thing about controversy’: Louis Vuitton closes Paris style week

Extra apparent odes got here by way of a postcard scene of town’s skyline printed throughout a leather-based jacket, the architectural proportions (a Ghesquière signature) and the dazzling Deco traces so synonymous with the Chrysler constructing that got here on each garments and luggage.

Because the jewel within the Louis Vuitton crown, the latter got here as prototypes of traditional designs – from bowler shapes to field clutches – that includes digital shifting photographs.

Fashions strolling the catwalk.

The footwear was primarily chunky boots. {Photograph}: Angela Weiss/AFP/Getty Pictures

These sturdy silhouettes filtered all the way down to the footwear, which primarily comprised flat chunky boots and are a continuation of what Ghesquière offered at his present in Paris in March.

On the time, he addressed his resolution to desert heels, saying that he not felt he wanted to “put girls in excessive heels to empower them”.

This week, within the former TWA terminal constructing, its sentiment took on further poignancy, pointing to the chasm that exists between the high-heeled polished flight attendants who would have walked its halls 40 years in the past and those that can march via it now.

Actors Emma Stone and Alicia Vikander on the Louis Vuitton present.

Actors Emma Stone and Alicia Vikander on the Louis Vuitton present. {Photograph}: Angela Weiss/AFP/Getty Pictures

In decamping to New York, Louis Vuitton is considered one of a rising variety of manufacturers who’re taking their exhibits to far-flung locations to draw world markets. This month Paris-based Christian Dior relocated to Marrakesh to unveil its new assortment, whereas subsequent month Milan-based Moschino and Prada are decamping to the Common Studios backlot in Hollywood and Shanghai respectively.

Such relocations are part of a wider technique to boost revenues and one which for Louis Vuitton house owners, LVMH, seems to be paying off. The conglomerate reported first-quarter gross sales for the group have been up final month with gross sales at its leather-based items unit, which is essentially pushed by Vuitton, up 15% and succeeding analysts’ expectations.


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