Pat McGrath, who has been working in the fashion industry for over thirty years, has brought her ideas to life in countless shows, she has worked with fashion houses such as Versace, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin and Givenchy, and created images for leading glossy publications. SPLETNIK.RU talks about "mothers creative makeup"as friends and fans call her.
Pat McGrath was born on June 11, 1966 in Northampton (England). She was raised by her mother Gene McGrath, a Jamaican immigrant. It was she who, by her own admission, McGrath owes her love of fashion and the art of makeup and beauty experiments.
Mom was obsessed with beauty, collected cosmetics and came up with various images. When I was a kid, the world of makeup was completely different. There was only a couple of colors for darker skin tones. So my earliest memories of cosmetics are related to experiments. I came up with new compounds, mixing different pigments, She said in an interview.
She picked up cosmetics with her mother in the supermarket, looked for something suitable for her skin tone, and in the evenings she did her mother's podium makeup like supermodels of the 70s. At eight years old, the girl created her moisturizer – mixed oil and water, put in the refrigerator for the night and then presented handmade jars to her relatives.
McGrath does not have a make-up artist education, she only took a basic course in fundamental art at Northampton College. More precisely, she tried to get through. Pat admits that she flew out of the art school: it seemed to her that the lessons were pointless because she knew that she could do better than her teachers. The girl was not interested in drawing primitive arrows and doing smoky, she was inspired by the images of David Bowie, Boy George and Grace Jones.
When I started, not a penny was paid for the work of a makeup artist, especially in England. Therefore, everyone was just crazy, brilliant, wild. I often worked for free – we did everything because of a passion for creativity. What are these different things – to do something for love and for business, – recalled McGrath.
Pat McGrath and Kim Kardashian
In the late 1980s, after leaving school, Pat moved to London, where she met photographer Craig MacDin, fashion editor Edward Enninful (now he is the chief editor of British Vogue) and stylists Guido Palau and Eugene Suleiman. Then she began to ride (and illegally go to shows) for fashion weeks in Paris. In the 1990s, Enninful became editor of the fashion department and invited Pat to shoot for i-D Magazine as a makeup artist, and immediately after appointed her to the position of creative magazine makeup artist.
In the 90s, she began to collaborate with designers John Galliano and Jill Sander, and in 1994, Pat first happened to work with photographer Stephen Meisel – and since then he has been shooting only with her. Thanks to his support, McGrath began to invite fashion houses such as Versace, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin and Givenchy to shoot advertising campaigns.
Pat – Creative Makeup Director
For the first time, Pat's talent for creating new makeup products was noticed by Giorgio Armani, who in 1999 entrusted her with the launch of her own line of cosmetics Giorgio Armani Beauty. As he noted, Pat has an amazing ability to emphasize female beauty. In 2004, a fateful event took place for Pat: she was appointed creative director of Procter & Gamble Cosmetics (she became responsible for MaxFactor and Cover Girl products). The make-up artist also launched Dolce & Gabbana Beauty and Gucci makeup lines.
Karen Elson, Pat McGrath and Amber Valletta
In 2010, David Fincher personally asked her to work on the image of the film The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.
Andre Leon Talley and Pat McGrath
I am inspired by the fabrics, colors and shades that surround me, as well as the faces of the model girls I work with. And it’s always a challenge – to create for everyone a unique make-up that no one can ever repeat, She says.
In September 2015, Pat McGrath, inspired by some collections and makeup from Fashion Week, made makeup for the Barbie collectible doll.
Own brand launch
In October 2015, unexpectedly for everyone, she introduced her own brand of cosmetics – Pat McGrath Labs. The debut product – the gold pigment Gold 001, which she used at the Prada spring-summer 2016 show, was sold out in just six minutes. And despite the fact that the tool was advertised only in the microblog of Pat herself. The makeup artist was one of the first who decided to promote her products exclusively through Instagram (now she has 2.8 million followers).
Admiration, however, was caused not only by the product itself, but also by its packaging. Gold 001 was delivered in a spectacular package full of large sequins, complete with a spare container and a metal spatula. Then followed the launch of the Phantom 002 color pigments, Mothership eye shadow palettes, Skin Fetish 003 stick highlighter, carcasses Fetish Eyes, Lust Matte Trance lipsticks with golden lips on the packaging, Metalmorphasis 005 eye products (eyeliner and shimmering like mercury, shadows), sets for smoky eyes Dark Star 006 and so on.
Currently, Pat McGrath is the creative director of the cosmetics concern Procter & Gamble and the guest editor of British Vogue.
What's cool about my industry is that, since I chose the industry, my feet have never touched the ground. Sometimes I ask myself: why did I stay honest and strong? I realized that it was because of the memories of my mother. That time was the happiest. Beauty reminds me of how she enjoyed life, of her freedom and tranquility. Why am I trying to perfect every eyelash 10,000 times? Why do I go to the store and feel as if I had never seen lipstick before? I realized that it was her merit She said in an interview.
Each Fashion Week, the makeup artist is responsible for creating beauty images for 40 shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Eyes inlaid with Swarovski crystals, lips adorned with precious stones, golden metal lips and flashing eyelashes with feathers are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the memorable and spectacular images that she created. McGrath is not afraid to experiment with vibrant shades and custom, avant-garde materials.
I think everyone likes what I do because I always tried to create something direct, new. If someone put gloss on their lips, I thought how to make them completely paper or cellophane. That's the trick She explains her success.
According to Refinery29, Pat earns 30 thousand pounds (about 2.5 million rubles) for preparing models for one fashion show, and her fortune is approaching the cherished mark of a billion dollars.
The star makeup artist regularly gets on the very-best lists. In 2017, she received the prestigious award of the CFDA – the Board of Fashion Directors of America (this is the first time in history when the award went to makeup artist).
In April of this year, Time magazine published an annual list of the most influential people of the year. Experts of the publication noted Pat McGrath. Among her merits, the magazine named the promotion of inclusiveness, the expansion of beauty standards and the promotion of models with dark skin.
Supermodel Beverly Johnson once said:
When I started my modeling career, there were no black makeup artists in the industry. They did not quite understand how to work with our skin color, the photographers also did not know how to shoot, because they had never before photographed blacks on film. All you want to do is to be seen as you are. Pat McGrath lets us get noticed. Other makeup artists are afraid to go beyond, but Pat is not like that.
From the very beginning of my career, I have always advocated expanding the range of shades. In addition, every product from my line is universal and suitable for both women and men. I want everyone to look as beautiful as they want, She said.
Rihanna and Pat McGrath
Pat McGrath and Naomi Campbell