Next spring, it will be 1993 â€“ in fashion years, at least.
That was the news from Givenchy, where the designer Clare Waight Keller named next seasonâ€™s collection NY Paris 1993. The entrance to the show was lined with liveried waiters who handed each guest a Givenchy-stamped paper bag containing a single salty New York pretzel.
On the catwalk, baggy jeans were worn with high-heeled mules, stonewashed denim skirts with bare knees and calf-length boots. Kaia Gerber, daughter of 90s supermodel Cindy Crawford, wore a satin bra top and black leather.
After reading Allison Yarrowâ€™s 2018 book 90s Bitch: Media, Culture and the Failed Promise of Gender Equality, Waight Keller found herself looking differently at that decade. â€œThe book made me realise how sexualised women were in that era, and how little we recognised that at the time â€“ and how what happened then led to where we are now. The fashion of that era is so raw. You had a slip dress on, a bra top â€“ you were almost naked.â€
Waight Keller wanted to revisit the era but with a more enlightened outlook of â€œliberated femininityâ€. Hemlines became longer, fabrics got tougher. â€œMore armoured,â€ as the designer put it backstage. A modern sensibility prompted Waight Keller to source surplus 90s jeans languishing in a warehouse outside Paris, and upcycle them into this seasonâ€™s denim. A jeans revival is emerging as a theme at this Paris fashion week, after Hedi Slimaneâ€™s Celine collection gave a starring role to 1970s style flares.
Earlier on Sunday there were many strange things about Balenciagaâ€™s catwalk show. The inflatable puffer jackets, which swelled high above the shoulders to give models the silhouette of Gru from Despicable Me. There was also a lurid blue stage set inspired by the European parliament and credit cards were worn as earrings.