CultPost: Letitia Casta in the image of a flower fairy and the queen of the crop at couture fashion show Yves Saint Laurent in 1999


CultPost: Letitia Casta in the image of a flower fairy and the queen of the crop at couture fashion show Yves Saint Laurent in 1999

Laetitia Casta and Yves Saint Laurent

In our traditional section "CultPokaz" we recall the vibrant and iconic fashion shows of past years. Today we invite you to go on a colorful couture fashion show Yves Saint Laurent, on which Letitia Casta turned into a flower fairy or the queen of the harvest, as well as a glimpse into the famous studio where the fashion designer prepared collections and rehearsed with models.

This year, the long-awaited film by Olivier Meiro “Celebration Couturier” (Celebration), dedicated to the last years of Yves Saint Laurent, spent as the creative director of his own house, was released.

Yves Saint Laurent with model Esther Cañadas in the studio before the couture fall / winter show - 1999/2000, July 1999Yves Saint Laurent with model Esther Cañadas in an atelier before a couture fashion show Fall-Winter – 1999-2000, July 1999Yves Saint Laurent with model Esther Cañadas in an atelier before a couture fashion show Fall-Winter - 1999-2000, July 1999

The shooting took place from 1997 to 2001, and the documentary itself was ready back in 2007, but, alas, went on the shelf – they managed to show it only once at the Berlinale.

This show alone was enough for Saint Laurent’s partner Pierre Berger to ban the rental: neither the image of the couturier himself, appearing on the screen as an aloof and deeply sick person, nor the image of Berger himself — something between the nanny and the strict effective manager — clearly did not answer as Berger himself would like to preserve these images in history.

Frame from the film "The Greatest Couturier"Frame from the film "The Greatest Couturier"

Watching “The Greatest Couturier” at certain times is really difficult, but another thing is striking: the stronger the feeling that Saint-Laurent’s connection with the real world is irretrievably lost, the more pronounced is the connection with his own creative worlds.

Until the last, the designer worked, did not let the pencil out of his hands, looked closely at the models, and after a long pause, he suddenly issued a completely sensible remark regarding the cut or some decorative detail.

Naomi Campbell at the YSL Spring-Summer 1999 ShowNaomi Campbell at the YSL Spring-Summer 1999 ShowNaomi Campbell at the YSL Spring / Summer 1999 Show

In 1998, Saint-Laurent ceased to engage in ready-to-wear collections, transferring them to the management of Albert Elbaz, and he focused only on couture lines. The spring-summer and fall-winter collections, shown in 1999, can be safely reckoned with the cult heritage of the fashion house.

Undoubtedly, despite the deteriorating state of health, the clarity of his creative mind, Saint Laurent did not lose at all, presenting two collections of incredible beauty and subtly interconnected.

Esther Cañadas at the YSL Spring-Summer 1999 ShowEsther Cañadas at the YSL Spring-Summer 1999 ShowEsther Cañadas at the YSL Spring / Summer 1999 Show

The star of both shows was Laetitia Casta, who was one of the last muses of the designer. It was cooperation with Saint Laurent that elevated the Frenchwoman to the status of a podium star at the turn of the century.

Yves Saint Laurent was the first man next to whom I felt like a woman. We were both very quiet and sensitive, we held each other,

– remembered the couturier Casta.

Laetitia Casta at the YSL Spring-Summer Fashion Show - 1999Laetitia Casta at the YSL Spring-Summer Fashion Show – 1999

On the spring-summer fashion show, she appeared in one of the most spectacular dresses, which only knows the history of couture, Saint-Laurent once again proved that everything ingenious is simple. What can better symbolize the arrival of spring, if not flowers! But a floral print is so trite! Why not create a dress from the flowers themselves ?!

Laetitia Casta and Yves Saint LaurentLaetitia Casta and Yves Saint Laurent

When Letizia appeared on the catwalk, in a dress created exactly by her standards, many in the audience took their breath away. In one second, everyone from the Paris hall was transported to some fairyland with flower fairies and elves. The outfit, it seems, was created not in the studio, but in some kind of magical garden with the most beautiful roses in the world. The old-timers of fashion weeks could not recall such a bride’s outfit – it’s definitely worth looking for a prince!

YSL Spring-Summer Show 1999YSL Spring-Summer Show 1999YSL Spring / Summer 1999 Show

YSL Spring / Summer 1999 Show

YSL Spring / Summer 1999 Show

The natural line continued in the autumn collection – instead of flowers, this time the models had bouquets of ears in their hands, and wreaths of ripened wheat decorated their heads no longer with flowers.

Laetitia Casta at the YSL Fall-Winter show - 1999-2000Laetitia Casta at the YSL Fall-Winter show – 1999-2000YSL Fall-Winter Show - 1999-2000

Esther Cañadas at the YSL Fall-Winter show - 1999-2000Esther Cañadas at the YSL Fall-Winter show – 1999-2000YSL Fall-Winter Show - 1999-2000

YSL Fall-Winter Show - 1999-2000

Nature faded, Saint Laurent himself faded, and with it the era of magnificent couture. Back in 1992, Pierre Berger announced the end of haute couture – in 2002 Saint Laurent presented his latest collection and closed the YSL couture line.

Yves Saint Laurent





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