Shalom Harlow / Naomi Campbell
The time has come for the next issue of our new traditional column "CultPokaz", and today we invite you to recall the couture fashion show for the fall-winter season 1997/1998 by Dior and the very beginning of the John Galliano era in the history of this brand. On the podium that day (and the show was held on July 8, 1997 in Paris as part of High Fashion Week) Naomi Campbell, Carla Bruni, Eva Herzigova, Nadia Auermann and half-naked Shalom Harlow.
The appointment of John Galliano as Creative Director of Dior has become an event in the fashion world. The French brand, which seems to have been a symbol of true French high fashion, was again led by a foreigner.
Many believe that this was a deliberate strategy of Bernard Arnault, who took Dior in 1984 for a symbolic one franc (the company that owned the brand went bankrupt – the arrogant investor Arno could not help but use this, and, in fact, began to create his own luxury empire )
Eva HerzigovaNadia AuermannCarla Bruni
At first, he appointed the Italian director Gianfranco Ferre, who became the first foreigner at the head of Dior, and in 1996 replaced him with the Briton Galliano.
All in order to once again annoy the French society, which was critical of the predatory manner of Arnault to absorb the company (for example, it is believed that when buying LVMH he took advantage of the conflict between shareholders).
Bernard Arnault with wife Elena, Claude Pompidou and Emmanuelle Beart
In the case of the appointment of Gagliano, however, there was also a â€œcorruption schemeâ€ – Anna Wintour praised the designer very much, and Arno seemed to trust the opinion of the most influential lady in the fashion world. However, he could already appreciate the potential of the Briton earlier, because Galliano was already an employee of LVMH – he served as Creative Director of Givenchy. The task for the fashion designer was set as follows: to refresh the traditional brand (frankly, Ferre was also rather a conservative) before the millennium era.
Shalom HarlowEva HerzigovaNaomi Campbell
Kristina SemenovskayaHelena Christensen
And with her Galliano dealt with the very first collection: provocations, eclecticism, emphasized sexuality – all these are recognizable features of the author's style of the designer. At the same time, almost theatrical costumes coexisted on the podium with the fact that their conciseness was more like a uniform.
The fashion show of autumn-winter – 1997/1998 can serve as an excellent illustration of this creative approach. In front of the audience, among whom were Demmy Moor and Stella McCartney, who had just become the creative director of Chloe, fashioned models both in tightly buttoned jackets, and with open breasts, in provocative mini and lace stockings and in chaste black maxi, in luxurious furs and in metal armor.
Demi Moore and Emmanuelle BearStella McCartney
As in the spring-summer collection of the same year, Gagliano was inspired a lot by national clothes and accessories: metal necklaces from many rings on black models, Native American braids and geisha hairstyles would not be praised for such ethnography today.
But then Galliano was a real star and managed to return Dior to cult status, creating, among other things, one of the most coveted accessories – a saddle bag, which appeared in the spring-summer 2000 collection, inspired by the theme of cowboys and the Wild West.
Alas, success and universal love ended in an instant – after a careless remark about the Jews made intoxicated. March 1, 2011, John Galliano was fired from the post of creative director of Christian Dior.
John Galliano with a model in the show finale