The late influential stylist and accessories designer Judy Blame was the surprise inspiration for Dior Menâ€™s collection, which showed on Friday during Paris Fashion Week.
The ghost of Blame, who defined the late 80s London scene through his work in i-D magazine and The Face, haunted the autumn-winter collection from designer Kim Jones.
â€œI thought it was nice to do a tribute [to him],â€ said Jones, who first met Blame when he was 16. â€œHe was really important and cultural. Not only was he doing fashion but he was doing Neneh Cherry, Massive Attack and Bjorkâ€™s looks. A generation grew up on his designs.â€
Blameâ€™s mantra â€“ â€œmake something. Wear it. Cause troubleâ€ â€“ was in evidence at the show as English subcultures battled it out on Jonesâ€™ catwalk to the roaring thump of Fleetwood Macâ€™s Big Love. There were nods to Teddy Boys, Blitz club-era elements, and Blameâ€™s own Buffalo style, in the form of berets specially made by milliner Stephen Jones.
The collection featured such Blame favourites as opera gloves studded with pearls, Chelsea boots and two-tone bomber jackets. Meanwhile, Diorâ€™s trademark design Toile de Jouy motif was blown up and reconfigured as Toile de Judy on a jumper, and Diorâ€™s famous newsprint print made an appearance on a dress shirt and a formal tie.
The show highlighted the commonalities between Jonesâ€™s and Blameâ€™s aesthetics: both mixed styles and cultures together to create something new. For Jones, he combines masculine with feminine, streetwear with tailoring. For Blame, he transformed everyday objects like string and electrical tape into wearable bricolage.
As well as Blame, Jones paid tribute to Diorâ€™s Marc Bohan who had a 30-year career at the house; a dazzling, show-closing bejewelled jacket was based on a dress from Bohanâ€™s 1969 autumn-winter collection.
The show, which marked the two-year anniversary of Blameâ€™s death and was watched by guests including Courtney Love and Victoria Beckham, was a storied piece of nostalgic upcycling, at a time when both sustainability and â€œlooking forward, in order to look backâ€ are key themes in fashion at the moment.
It marked a departure for Jones, who picked up the Designer of The Year gong at the Fashion Awards in December and whose previous shows have been characterised by collaborations (most recently Shawn Stussy and previously with artists including Raymond Pettibon and Danile Arsham).