There is a special place for sausage in German cuisine, but traditional art of making bratwurst (finely chopped sausage) can be a thing of the past soon.
Butchers are shutting down their shops throughout Germany. Here in the last two decades, meat shops have remained almost halfway.
According to the German Butcheries Association (DFV), there were 21,160 shops of meat in 1998, which remained less than 12,000 in 2018.
There are only 108 butcher shops for 37 million people living in Berlin. Comparison with Central Province Thuringia, the difference clearly looks.
There are about 400 tokier shops for 21.5 million people.
There are approximately 3,300 meats of meat in the southern province of Bavaria for 13 million people.
Sales increased, interest declined
The closure of the butcher shops is not related to profits. According to DFV, people of Germany still buy traditionally made meat products with great interest.
In the last two decades, average annual sales of meat shops increased by 60 percent and in 2018 it reached 14 million euros ($ 15.7 million or Â£ 12.6 million).
So if the demand is still there, then why are the shops in Germany shutting down? This is a direct response to old butcher Jorge Litgow of Berlin – the appeal of this profession is not there in the younger generation. He says, "It's hard work. No one wants to do it anymore."
Litgough is running its business since 1995. She is a fifth-generation butchers. Their morning starts at 4:30. Behind the shop, they have a production area, where they spend 14 hours a day.
Here meat products are made from family spices for making sausage. He says, "We make our own spice mixture. In some other stores, the pre-prepared spices are used, but we will not get the thing here."
His hard work is done in a quiet street next to his shop – cut pieces of beef curry, sausage prepared with small pork, which becomes bright red by mixing chilli powder and long brown liverware long cylinder.
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"My parents did the work, my grandfather did the same thing, my grandfather opened my shop in this place in 1934."
But now any member or relative of his family does not want to be involved in this work, so Litgota is worried that after leaving his work the family tradition will not be able to continue.
"I have kept many trainees in the last few years, but now I do not do that work."
"They are not ready to do this work, they do not want to do things that take too much time and physical effort."
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Do not come to learn
This change is not limited to the German capital. According to recent estimates, two-thirds of butchers from Germany are above 50 years old and there is no one to take their place.
The number of those who took part in the three-year butcher training program has decreased considerably. In these training programs, practical training is provided along with technical education.
According to DFV, there were more than 10 thousand trawlers but in 1999, their number dropped to 3 thousand in 2017.
Three years of training is also necessary to become a salesman in the meat shops. The number of those taking the training has decreased.
In 1999 there were about 14 thousand sales trainees. This number dropped to 3,700 in 2017.
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Klaus Gerlak, director of the Berlin Butcher Guild, says, "We are not only struggling with the lack of trained butchers, but also do not get the staff for the shops."
The lack of meat shops and the lack of trainee tochers has troubled most of the capital Berlin.
In July 2018, the Berlin Butcher Guild announced that it will stop the program to teach trainees in the only Technical Bucari College in the city.
Geralak says, "Twenty years ago when this Technical College was opened, there were 1,250 trainees in Berlin and Brandenburg, and only 145 were in the past year."
During both training programs, butcher and sales, trainees can work in stores in Berlin.
But in classrooms, where they learn about new machines and other methods, they have to go to the technical college of Leipzig 200 kilometers south-west.
What can be done to attract new young trainees? Gerlak says that some jobs can be done with better pay and facilities.
In Berlin, trainees can earn a maximum of $ 700 ($ 785 or 635 pounds) in the month, which is decided by local trade organizations.
In other parts of the country, they can earn more than 1,000 euros ($ 1,120 or 905 pounds).
Geralak says, "We have to remember that they are not just the support staff, they are the future of our business."
The cash is not enough to save the butcher's traditional shops.
According to Hendrik Hasey, food activist and co-founder of Berlin's Shop Compile and Cule, there is a need to change the attitude of the people towards this area.
"These days people are more knowledgeable, they have many questions about food. Is it okay to eat meat? How does it affect the climate? Where do the animals come from?"
Being involved in a meaningful discussion on these topics can help keep this tradition alive in a non-vegetarian society.
Make room for discussion
35-year-old Hasse is a communications consultant and designer. Together with Jorge Forstera, 31, they opened Compile and Quail in 2015.
Transparency has been at the center of their business model since the beginning. They not only give complete information about the origin of the product, but also show it while preparing it.
Forstera and other members of the team cut meat behind a huge glass window and prepare sausages where customers can see them.
"People are fed up with scams and meat sold in the supermarket, they want to spend their money on good food and want to know about the journey from the farm to their table.
Hasey says that the butchers will have to find ways to bring such openness into their business.
It is important to bring the youth
Contacting people in social media, production workshops and in other ways can not only be linked to customers, but it can also attract potential new trainees in this field.
But if the butcher of Germany does not adopt new things, then a centuries-old tradition can be at stake.
Haas says, "The recipe for making sausage or laborcaze is not usually written in books, they are in the minds of people."
"If they give up, we will lose the legacy of our food. As we are shutting down our shops, we are losing our traditions."
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